RESTAURANT REVIEW: LA FAUXMAGERIE’S CHEESE CELLAR, Camden

I REALLY WANTED TO LOVE FONDUE NIGHT: AN UNDERWHELMING EXPERIENCE ACCOMPANIED BY GREAT VEGAN CHEESE

By Clara Günthner

Photo credit: Girl Dinner Magazine

Following the receptionist down the stairs and through the heavy red curtain into the new Cheese Cellarfeels a little bit forbidden, a tiny bit Great Gatsby. But, admittedly, a lot less cool. Because, well, I’m not risking my eyesight or sanity for an illicit drink – I’m just a gal in search of some melted vegan cheese.   

If we’re friends, I will have told you about La Fauxmagerie. I may have mentioned them more than once and I may have talked too much about their blue cheese. I’m not sorry.  

The fully vegan, first-of-its-kind cheesemonger recently closed its shop and restaurant in Shoreditch but, luckily, has already reopened its doors in a new, somewhat unusual location: the cellar of the popular vegan pizzeria Purezza in Camden. They now sell a selection of plant-based cheeses from a well-assorted fridge on the ground floor of the restaurant and host cheesy dinners in the basement every Thursday, Friday and Saturday.    

I took the reopening of La Fauxmagerie’s Cheese Cellar as an opportunity to finally try their infamous fondue night. 

Although less sexy than a 1920s speakeasy – or at least my conception of it – the place is rather lovely. And it does feel like stepping into another, secret world after strolling the brimming streets of Camden on a sunny afternoon: it’s a small, dimly lit room with a rustic, alpine ambience. Quirky paintings of cheese line the walls and potted plants give it a homey feel. There’s lots of wood and I’m delighted about the fact they have real candles on the tables – and many of them.

The place is emptier than I expected on opening night, but it doesn’t spoil the vibe. Two or three other parties are already fondueing away. The atmosphere is cosy and romantic. The air smells like cheese. I’m ready.

Our waiter is familiar and exceptionally friendly but not in an overbearing kind of way. She lets us pick the table. My friend and I settle into the booth that could easily seat six people. I feel a little lost at first because I don’t know what to do with all the space but then I remember that this is a good thing and get comfortable.

Photo credit: Girl Dinner Magazine

On fondue night you aren’t given many choices. The ‘Fondue for two’ is a set list of sourdough bread and antipasti that accompany the “creamy, gooey fondue laced with dry white wine, and a subtle kick of truffle and garlic.”  

Food choices are tough choices for me, and I try to feel the relief of not being given one…but I don’t. I ask the waiter for a wine recommendation, which she answers with: “They’re both really good.” With just two wines on the menu, I was hoping for a more substantial recommendation, but she’s really lovely so I don’t mind and pick the frizzante.

Our drinks arrive swiftly and so does the antipasti platter, sourdough bread and the pot of vegan fondue. We cheers, the wine is tasty – it’s a great start!

Like the frizzante, the melted cheese doesn’t disappoint and is by far the best part of the meal. In my opinion, the fondue could be a bit tangier, have a bit more punch – the subtle kick of truffle and garlic is just that, subtle. But it has a lovely, silky texture, a convincingly cheesy flavour and pairs great with my wine. Even my non-vegan company says it tastes like the real thing.

Unfortunately, the antipasti platter is less convincing and leaves us underwhelmed. My friend describes the look of it as “very brown” and the first thing I think when our waiter drops it on the table is: stingy. There are three artichoke hearts to share between the two of us, six grilled olives, a small handful of roasted aubergine and courgette, eight wild garlic buds and eight slices of vegan pepperoni. Not quite the decadent selection that comes to mind when I think fondue.

I know the climate is tough for small businesses and I know good food has its price, but the look of the platter alone makes me feel like I’m overpaying before I even taste the food.

There isn’t anything horribly wrong with it, but it just doesn’t do much for me. The aubergine is undercooked and chewy. The roasted courgette is better but not great, and considering the range of mock meats available, the vegan pepperoni is not the best choice. It’s rubbery and lacks flavour. On a more positive note, we both try wild garlic buds for the first time and are pleasantly surprised. The artichokes and olives are a solid eight out of ten but taste better on their own than smothered in cheese. After trying everything, we agree that sourdough is the strongest contender.

We do get over our initial disappointment and enjoy our evening. We pick, dip and sip and occasionally stir the cheese pot. Despite being underwhelmed with the flavours of our meal, I do enjoy the interactive nature of it: it’s fun to dunk stuff in liquid cheese and try not to lose anything in the depths of it. It gives you something to do and talk about and makes dinner more of a shared experience.

Photo credit: Girl Dinner Magazine

The mood is relaxed, and the dim lighting and soft jazz add to the intimate ambience. It’s hard not to get drawn in by the romantic vibes. I have to remind myself I’m not single when my friend and I meet eyes over the candlelight and pot of melted cheese between us.

Against our expectations, the fondue does fill us up. We almost finish the whole pot of cheese and most of the vegetables and demolish two breadbaskets, one of which is a complimentary refill. I feel full but not satisfied in the way I want to when eating out. There’s also still room for dessert, but isn’t there always?

Unfortunately, there’s nothing sweet on the menu, but the vibe is so nice that this, too, is quickly forgotten. They aren’t turning tables, so nobody seems to mind that we don’t order more drinks, and we appreciate that they just let us sit and chat for a long time after we finish our dinner.

I really wanted to love fondue night but it turns out I may not be the biggest fan of dipping cold vegetables in cheese. So I admit it might be a me-problem in part.

To say I’m disappointed with my first Cheese Cellar experience would be an exaggeration – just underwhelmed. I had a lovely night out with good food, nice wine and great company. The service was wonderful, and the vibe of the place made up for the fact that, essentially, bread and cheese was the culinary highlight of the evening.

I will say, however, that I don’t think the food was worth my money. La Fauxmagerie makes fantastic vegan cheese and the cheesy part of the evening was absolutely enjoyable but that’s just half the fun of fondue. The other half simply didn’t live up to my expectations.  

I probably won’t come back to Camden for fondue night, but I might still give the cheese and wine tasting a shot. Regardless of my experience at their new location, I won’t stop recommending La Fauxmagerie cheeses to all the vegans and anyone who will listen.  

You can find La Fauxmagerie in Purezza 45-47 Parkway, Camden, NW1 7PN

The Cheese Cellar is open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.